Thursday, February 19, 2009

Aero India 2009

Here I present a short write up on the Aero Show 2009 that took place from Feb 11- 15 at Air Force Station, Yelahanka, Bangalore. This was the 7th Aero India show, organized by Ministry of Defence, Government of India and also managed by the CII (Confederation of Indian Industry) after 6 successful editions of the exhibition from 1996 -2007.

The defence exhibition was a breathtaking experience and I was struck with awe at the flight displays presented by exhibitors, both indigenous and foreign. At the same time, there is an equal share of anger too with the English daily, Times of India that provided threadbare details of the event of such scale.

Viswa and I went on the last day of the exhibition, a Sunday (Feb 15), reaching the venue by the special BMTC bus service from Shivaji Nagar bus terminus to Yelahanka Air Base. We reached the venue at 10.10 am amidst huge roars from the aircrafts that sped through the blue, clear sky. There are two shows each day starting from day 1 of the exhibition and I must say, having stayed for both, that these two are pretty different. We saw solo air flight performances by three fighter aircrafts, followed by a solo rendition of a glider and helicopter in the morning session before we witnessed superb, unparalleled air stunts by the Saarang team of IAF on Dhruv copters. Four choppers in perfect unison performed stunts like loop formations, fly past/cross paths with just enough room for their rotors, dolphin leap and my favourite of all – the reverse motion of a chopper to join the other three. The chopper moving in the reverse direction literally performed the act of moonwalk in sky.

Moving into afternoon hours, we saw three choppers, one lifting a jeep, two others a human chain, then 13 paratroopers, from the Akaashganga Sky diving team descending in style. After this there was a short recess when the crowd dispersed to grab lunch. The second show of the day began at 2.30 pm and we stuck on, this time closer to the speakers from where we could clearly hear descriptions of each aircraft, its vital statistics and details of the commander/officer who flew it.

To start with, the whale-like B 70 of the US Air force took off the runway. As it soared into the sky, we wondered how it was able to lift itself and keep afloat. The behemoth steered in different angles and every time it flew over us, we only wondered if the sky was enough for it.

The second event in the afternoon show was the flight acrobatics by LCA. This was a marvellous display where unbelievable heights were reached, free fall was attempted a couple of times, swift change of angles and flight with belly upwards occurred. The next on show was a solo display, no less than that of LCA, by the British aircraft, Hawk. A white colored and relatively meek glider Hansa 3 took to sky thereafter.

Now was the time for the star performance and the landmark event of the Aero Show – performance by the Suryakiran team of IAF, anticipating which we decided to linger on at the venue even after the end of the first show. Our patience did pay off.

Six Kiran aircrafts, maintained prim and proper since 1960 leapt into the sky in two groups, each of 3 aircrafts. It was a sheer visual treat seeing the six aircrafts fly in close proximity making shapes of V and T, loops, barrel rolls and flying past, leaving trails of tricolour. The stage was set aptly with “Vande Mataram” song by AR Rahman playing in the background from the speakers. It evoked a great sense of national pride in all. We stood erect, heads held as high as possible to record every swift action of the 6 aircrafts. A highly talented team, with unquestionable precision, leaving not even hairline room for error/doubt raced with supreme control in the sky, headed by one Mr. Curian in such sync that the crowd could not do much but call for an “encore”. The team performed the final act of splitting along different trajectories after having flown closely, it appeared equivalent to a flower pot cracker in the sky.

The Saarang team performed again in the afternoon, this time, the moon walk act was missing and the 13 paratroopers again descended down the sky. The Aero Show 2009 drew to a close and was a stupendous success. We returned home filled with excitement, with a vow to get back after two years.

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

My Favorite AD

In the world of advertisements, tons of them talk volumes on serious issues of investments, insurance(health/accident), pension plans. A multitude of them deal with less trivial stuff like fairness creams, zero calorie sweetener and dandruff shampoos. Many more are totally insane. Of all these, Tata Safari DICOR, Reclaim your Life! ad stands out!!!

When the advertisement came on 1 full page of an English daily with lines as stated below, it won many hearts. Many memorised the lines/jotted them down, even preserved the paper cutting in their scrapbook. I am one of them.

Here goes -
If you had a look back on your life what would you remember?
The promotion ? The performance bonus ?
The plaque in the conferance room ?
It does'nt take supreme intelligence to know what really matters.
And yet , you do little besides look in the distance and sigh.
Would'nt it be tragic to realise too late that you did'nt see the trap,
that you did'nt recognise the two words
that are the biggest curse of humanity ...
' May be some day' ?
It takes little to reclaim your life.
No less better are the Airtel Ad - with A R Rahman's music adding charm that lasts till day; World Space satellite radio ad - with meaningful lines on how music can be defined, where it can be found, the definition delivered in a very composed voice by AR Rahman.
Hope to see more such well crafted ads amidst the current monotony of "Na sar jukha hai kabhi , Papa ghumm ho gaye tho bhi papa hi car laake denge, Aapka kal rahe aaj jaise hi, Get fair and (not just beautiful) handsome in 14 days " ... etc.

Thursday, January 29, 2009

The journey continues .... Gadag

Our visit to Badami cave temples, Aihole and Pattadakal in a day's time ended well providing us some comprehensive history lessons. We took a bus in the evening from Badami bus station to Gadag. As the bus rode on the highway via Ron and Betigeri, we stared constantly at the star-studded sky through the translucent windows of the bus. We spotted more stars than ever ; they appeared like a closely knit blanket of precious gemstones. Thanks to the pristine rural skies free from pollution and the near pitch darkness of the countryside, deprived of street/town lights that paved way for this gorgeous sight.
We arrrived at Gadag and planned activities for the last day of our Christmas vacation. Lakkundi, 12 km from Gadag, on the highway to Hosepet was our destination. We reached Gadag's new bus stand in the outskirts of the city next morning and boarded the bus to Koppal (NEKRTC bus service) which would stop at Lakkundi. At Lakkundi, we took some basic instructions from localites at the bus stand on whereabouts of the temples we intended to visit.
Closeby, behind the bus stand is the Manikeshwara temple. Built by the Chalukyas of Kalyani in the 11th century , this temple provides evidence for the remarkable improvement in temple architecture from earlier Chalukyas and the proximity in styles with those used by the Hoysalas. The Manikeshwara temple has smooth, lathe turned pillars with an ornate doorway. A beautiful, stepped tank (Kalyani/Pushkarini) lies in front of the temple, connected to the its plinth by a funny, bridge like structure.
From here, we took an auto and visited the ASI maintained sculptural gallery. Right behind the gallery is the Jain Brahma basadi, another Kalyana Chalukya monument of the 11 th century. The temple is marked by several features such as the lovely shikara, the mukhamantapa with highly decorative pillars and a sloping roof, the sanctum adorned by an elaborately carved doorway, 4-faced Brahma statue right outside the sanctum, a beheaded Jain statue outside the temple next to the smaller, Chandra basadi, all in the same complex. Close to Jain Brahma basadi is the Naganatha temple dedicated to Lord Parswanath.
We marched ahead on the dusty, village road towards Veeranarayana temple, poorly maintained by the villagers/private handlers and then further on to Kashi Viswanatha temple that stands on an elevated platform, the platform also shared by a Suryanarayana temple. The exterior walls of the temple have abundant sculptural wealth with the Kirthimukha piece, at periodic intervals and in perfect symmetry, adding more beauty. Adjacent to this complex, is the Naneshwar temple, bearing striking similarity to the Kashi Viswanatha temple in sculptural value.
The contribution of Chalukyas of Kalyani to Hindu temple architecture was no less when compared to their ancestors, Chalukyas of Badami. The Chalukyas of Badami were crushed by Dantidurga and the powerful empire that lasted over two centuries had no option but to submit to the Rashtrakutas. The Western Chalukyas regained power in Deccan in late 10th century (about 973 AD) with the seat of their kingdom at Kalyana, Bidar (Karnataka) which gave them the sobriquet – later western Chalukyas (10th -12th century) or Chalukyas of Kalyani. Pioneering efforts by Tailapa II and help from Kadambas led to the recovery of many lost territories. This etched a fresh chapter in history– the rebirth of the western Chalukyas. While Kadamabas were granted control over Goa and Banavasi for their favor, Chalukyas of Kalyani controlled the Deccan, protecting it against plundering invasions of Turks and Arabs from the north and in the South, from the Cholas. If Chalukyas of Badami were known for their multiple victories over the Pallava kings, Chalukyas of Kalyani were famous for an unbeaten string of victories over the Chola kings – Raja Raja Chola, (suffered defeat at the hands of Satyasraya), Rajendra Chola (defeated by Jayasimha, this ruler shifted the capital from Malkhed to Kalyana) and Rajadhi Raja Chola (defeated by Someshwara I). While wars with Cholas, Hoysalas and Kalachuris marked the reign of the Chalukyas of Kalyani (973-1190AD) prominently, aegis to art and architecture and refinement of temple building styles also had its share. The temples at Lakkundi, Dambal and Gadag built by Chalukyas of Kalyani provide an imposing evidence of the mammoth task they carried out to advance architecture styles.
We headed back to the bus stand and got back to Gadag. At Gadag, we visited the Veeranarayana temple, entirely refurbished and left with very little historical value; the Someshwara temple, in complete sculptural elegance from head to foot, one cannot spot a square inch area without carvings on it and the Trikuteshwara temple that also houses Goddess Saraswathi.The Trikuteshwara temple complex offers a blend of historical structures with current day extensions. The old Sarawathi temple has an array of very beautifully carved pillars - every design etched stands out crisply. The idol has broken hands and it is not customary to worship/perform puja to broken idols as per Hindu traditions. So a new complex has been built next to the old Sarawathi temple that houses the idols of Saraswathi, Savitri and Gayathri. While the Sarawathi temple (old and new) , adjacent green lawn (some village children were studying here with all concentration) lie on one side, the Trikuteshwara temple lies on the other side. This temple offers a mixture of several styles as it was built by Chalukyas of Kalyani and additions were made by Hoysalas at a later stage. Only a portion of this old temple is open to public and the earlier Suryanarayana sanctum has now been converted into a temple store room.
Dambala, about 20 km away from Gadag has a very beautiful temple - Dodda Basappa temple of 12th Century, built by Western Chalukyas . We could not fit this in our itinerary due to time constraints. Our Christmas vacation was a sheer visual treat. From temples to tombs, from primitive to refined architectural forms, we saw all that Adil shahis at Bijapur, Chalukyas, both early and later kings left for us to see.
And I did realise ... "The world is a book and those who do not travel read only a page".
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Quick Tips :
How to Reach: Frequent buses ply from Badami to Gadag. Gadag is also connect by rail to Badami and Bangalore. Lakkundi and Dambal can be reached by buses from Gadag. Lakkundi can be reached by any bus from Gadag that plies to Koppal/Hosepet. There are Rajhamsa (NWKRTC) executive buses that ply between Gadag and Bangalore.
Where to stay : Hotel Geethanjali residency on Station road. Suites at highly affordable rates.
Very clean, budget hotel.
Food : Geethanjali Residency has an attached vegetarian restaurant, serves yummy South Indian food. My Food is a restaurant that serves good North Indian food.
Don't miss out on Misra Dharwad Peda on Tonga Road - yummy sweets and savories. We devoured Kundah, Karadanth, dharwad Peda, saboo daana chooda, bhakarwadi, besan pakode, yummy malai kulfi.
Places to See:
Trikuteshwara temple, Someshwara temple at Gadag. Take an auto to visit these temples.
Manikeshwara temple, Jain Brahma Basadi, Kashi Viswanatha temple at Lakkundi
Doddabasappa temple at Dambala
Will require an early start and one day to finish visiting all sites. Localites provide all required information of the temples. Guides not required.
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Thursday, January 22, 2009

A Journey into the Chalukyan epoch - Pattadakal

Leaving Aihole, we were traveling into an advanced chapter of Chalukyan temple building that culminates in the structural temples at Pattadakal, 13 km from Badami. Saturated with copious information from the boards erected by the Archaeological Survey of India at Aihole temples, we took a breather looking at the fields flanking the road leading from Aihole to Pattadakal. While in auto, we did a recee of the photos captured at Aihole and revised details of all we had seen before preparing ourselves for more history lessons at Pattadakal.

We crossed a small bridge over the Malaprabha river and arrived at Pattadakal which was designated a UNESCO world heritage site in the year 1987. The complex with green lawns invited us to a composite layout of temples in both North Indian nagara style (curvilinear shikaras) and South Indian dravidian style (towers made of receding tiers).

The Kadasiddheshwara temple and Jambulinga temple appear first in the complex. These twin temples, built in the nagara style have curvilinear shikaras over the sanctum. Closely resembling one another with curved and short shikaras, they can be distinguished on the basis of the sculptures on the facade of the shikara. Galaganatha temple also has a nagara styled shikara, taller than that of Jambulinga temple with sloping roofs coming down from it.

Right next to Galaganatha temple, lies the Sangameshwara temple with a mantapa of the Satavahana period in front of the temple. The Sangameshwara temple has a tower in dravidian style and arthamanatapa adorned with lattice windows.

At Pattadakal, one alternates between temples of nagara and dravidian styles. After Sangameshwara temple, comes Kashi Vishweshwara temple built in nagara style. A row of small enclosures next to this temple houses multiple shiva lingas. Proceeding further, we arrive at the most important monuments in this complex – the Mallikarjuna temple and the Virupaksha temple that have abundant historical significance associated with it.

The indomitable spirit of the Chalukyan empire crumbled due to various internal conflicts during the reign of Pulakesin II (610-642AD) under whose rule, the Chalukyan empire also saw unprecedented conquests and expansion uptil Narmada river in the North and Cauvery in the South. The Pallavas in rebuttal crushed Chalukyas and suppressed them for a period of 13 years. Regain of power came with the kings Vikramaditya I, Vijayaditya who is believed to have built the Sangameshwara temple and more appropriately, to a bigger extent with Vikaramaditya II. Vikramaditya II ‘s repeated victories over the Pallavas of Kanchi and advancement into the Pallava territory after crushing Nandivarman II marked the completion of a vengeful act for the fate Chalukyas met at the hands of Pallava king Narasimhavarman in 642 AD.

Mallikarjuna temple constructed by Queen Trilokamahadevi, wife of Vikramaditya II (740 AD) is a downsized version of the Virupaksha temple.Virupaksha temple with a main entrance opposite a big and separate, Nandi Mantapa, two side porches leading to a pillared arthamantapa has a huge tower made of receding tiers and closely resembles the Kailashanath temple of Kanchi. This was built in 740 AD by Queen Lokamahadevi, wife of Vikramaditya II. Both these temples were built to commemorate Vikramaditya II’s victory over the Pallavas. The fine elements of sculptural beauty and workmanship of an inexplicable degree can be seen in the many symmetrical pillars that depict Puranic tales , elephant head brackets that support these pillars and the heavily sculpted walls on the exterior in these two temples.

A walkway, along side the Malaprabha river leads one to the Papanatha temple that stands on an elevated platform attracting one and all with its grand and heavily crafted external walls carrying scenes from the epic Ramayana. Every sculpture on the wall here glowed in the evening sunlight. Papanatha temple is unique in that it has a mix of nagara and dravidian styles in it.

We walked back to the entrance of the temple complex rallying through the multiple frames captured of many temples we visited since morning. The patronage, Chalukyas of Badami provided to Hindu temple architecture is of an unimaginable magnitude and to understand this, a visit to Badami, Aihole and Pattadakal is a necessity. This supreme empire ended with the ruler Kirthivarman II, Chalukyas of Badami were subjugated completely by the Rashtrakutas for over two centuries only to reappear as the Chalukyas of Kalyani adding more tales of valor, war and conquests to Indian history and much more finesse to the Hindu temple architecture. And our journey into the Chalukyan epoch continues.

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Quick Tips:
How to reach: Hire an auto from Badami. Complete a round trip from Badami to Aihole and Pattadakal for Rs.500. Hotels in Badami arrange for this upon request.

Some important information: Pattadakal is a small village. There are no hotels/restaurants here. Shops selling cool drinks, fruits and snacks exist close to the temple complex.

Places to see: All temples at the Pattadakal complex. One will require roughly 3 hours time here.

Guide: All temples have boards with clear details erected by the ASI. Grab a picture of these boards, read the contents on the digital camera screen and explore the monuments on your own based on these details. Guides are very costly.

Best time to visit: Winter months – overhead sun may not be as big a problem as at Aihole for there are some trees and green lawns to cool our heads.
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A Journey into the Chalukyan epoch - Aihole

Aihole, about 34 km from Badami, the initial capital of Chalukyas of Badami, formed the first experimentation ground for the empire’s temple building activities. Looking at the multitude of temples strewn across this small village, one can witness the process of evolution in Hindu temple architecture unfold from the simple, shed – like temples with sloping roofs to intricate structures with distinct mukha mandapa, artha mandapa, garba griha and tall, grand shikaras, spanning from 6th to 12 th century AD.

We hired an auto from Badami and reached the Aihole temple complex that houses Durga temple, Lad Khan temple and many other temples. The first temple we spotted in the complex was Durga temple or the fortress temple, a renowned symbol of Karnataka State Tourism.

Standing on an elevated platform, the Durga Temple attracts the tourists with its unconventional apsidal plan, pillared hall with intricate sculptures of Chamundeshwari and Mahishasuramardhini and curvilinear shikara over the sanctum (top is broken). The temple appears like a shiva linga due to its curved, nearly oval corridor running around the mukhamantapa.

Right next to the Durga temple, are three small temples and a tank. Walking ahead, one hits the Suryanarayana Gudi. The temple houses a statue of Lord Suryanarayana with his consorts – Usha and Sandhya and bears a broken, nagara style tower over the sanctum.

The Lad Khan temple stands next, quite different from the other temples nearby, presenting a two-storied facade. The mukhamantapa is adorned with 16 intricately carved pillars and the arthamandapa with lattice windows. The temple has a sloping roof and appears like a village house with a thatched roof. Initially, claimed to be a royal assembly hall or a marriage hall, Lad Khan temple got its name from the name of the person who made this temple his abode. The temple has a big sabhamantapa apart from the mukhamantapa, believed to have been used by the Chalukyan king, Pulakesin I for performing Ashvamedha Yagna (Horse sacrifice).

Gaudara Gudi, a primitive structure attracts one with its simplicity. It is the oldest temple at Aihole dated 5th century. A tank separates Gaudara Gudi and Chakra Gudi, the next temple in the complex. Chakra Gudi has a beautiful, curvilinear shikara, still intact with a rounded top. The Badiger Gudi and Ambiger Gudi are other temples that lie close by.

Walking a little away from this complex, one reaches the Huchimalli temple of the 8th century. This temple has a highly decorated curvilinear, nagara style shikara on top of the sanctum. Moving from Gaudara Gudi, Lad Khan temple to Huchimalli, one can find stark signs of evolution in the temple building styles and the increasing attention paid to elements of decoration and grandiose.

Walking down the road away from Huchimalli Gudi, one reaches the Ravanphadi cave temple. A very promising sight it offers in that, the cave’s interior has a deeply inset empty hall on one side and on other side, tall sculpture of Lord Shiva, 10 armed, in dancing pose with a serpent in hand; with Ganesha, Karthik and Goddess Parvathy forming the audience. A rock cut shivalinga is present in the sanctum between these two sections. Ravanphadi is an absolute “must see” site and rewinds memories of the Badami rock cut cave temples.

The Mallikarjuna temple complex, Huchipayanamatha with simple, house-like construction and Tryambakeshwar temple complex are other sites closeby. Atop a hillock, lie the Megutti Jain temple and the two-storied Buddhist temple that can be reached by a well laid out flight of stairs. We were reluctant to climb up as we were reeling under hunger, heat exhaustion due to the overhead, midday sun and running short of time.

To sum up, Aihole is a perfect example of a remote village transformed into a tourist spot for being the cradle of Indian temple architecture and for the unfathomable historical value it holds.
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Quick Tips:

How to reach: Hire an auto from Badami. Complete a round trip from Badami to Aihole and Pattadakal for Rs.500. Hotels in Badami arrange for this upon request.

Some important information: Aihole is a very small village. There are no hotels/restaurants here. Shops selling tender coconut water, some fruits and snacks exist close to the temple complex that houses Durga temple.

Places to see:
Temple complex consisting of Durga temple, Lad Khan temple and Gaudara Gudi. Durga Gudi and Lad Khan temple require a good chunk of time.
Huchimalli temple
Ravanphadi cave temple (very important)
Huchipayyana Matha
Jain Megutti temple and two storied Buddhist temple
Galaganatha group of temples at the bank of river Malaprabha

These are the most notable temples in Aihole. Can complete a tour of all these if one starts early in the morning from Badami so that the afternoon sun & heat exhaustion do not cripple your plans. We had to skip the last two as we visited the cave temples and Bhoothnath group the same morning and this delayed our trip to Aihole. There are innumerable temple complexes apart from those mentioned above. Stating that, it is just not possible to have a look at them all.

Guide: Guides are pretty expensive. Details from ASI boards and self exploration will suffice.

Best time to visit: Winter months - Nov – Feb. Even during winter, the afternoon hours are extremely hot. Wear a cap to avoid fainting and carry lots of water. There are no lawns around, it is rocks all over the dry village and it just cannot get any better with the scorching heat of the sun eating your head.

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